11.20.2008
First weekend in Seoul
Yesterday I went on my first big adventure into Seoul with one of the other English teachers. Well, first we had to put on a little mock lesson in front of two hundred prospective parents of nearly kinder-aged students. That was funny, and it’s so cute how all these little kids like to say, “Hi,” and, “Bye-bye,” showing me their good English. Parents here are really invested in their children, and though I understand fathers are nearly never around on weekdays, Saturday and Sunday are spent affectionately with family. Then I called my mom, 16 hours behind me.
Actually, first I woke up at 6am and leaped into cleaning my apartment. The situation is that the former teacher left the day I arrived, having packed practically the night before, and had two cats! One of those cats she brought with her, and the other she couldn’t afford to take, so for the time being that cat is at my colleagues’ house, hiding behind their oven and being completely traumatized. The result was a very fairly tidy place with a lot of things left behind (many helpful items) and cat hair under every piece of furniture and in every corner. It isn’t obviously dirty, but for two nights my asthma has woken me up, and that didn’t even happen to me at my parents’ house with their 20-year-old carpet…I knew something had to be done now.
I’ve been throwing items away, moving furniture, sweeping, cleaning surfaces and glass, and just personalizing my space. I’m rife with things to do, so having no television, telephone, or Internet connection hasn’t driven me crazy…yet. The television coaxial cable was cut in half inexplicably, so no TV for now. I have to wait to get my residency registration card, and first I have to do an employment physical exam, wait for the certificate of health from that, get my immigration card, then go get a bank account, and then get a cell phone and an Internet account, and perhaps a television account? I’m not sure. So this will be a process, and I have plenty of time to be methodical.
Then there’s the glorious aspect of my newfound privacy! There were some small computer speakers left behind, so I hooked them to my iPod and have been listening to whatever I please. Certainly, I need a stereo with better sound, but probably not so much bass that I blast my neighbors… I can really do what I please! I haven’t lived alone for a really long time, and though I had a lot of me-time and complete creative license at Toby and Tyler’s place, I couldn’t sit around naked! It’s too cold here to be naked, however.
Enough about me, let’s talk about Seoul! Here are some tidbits of Korean life that I have learned in two days: Everyone drives on the right side of the street, but in stores and on sidewalks they pass on the left. You can bump into people without acknowledging them and neither party is offended (there are too many people moving around each other not to bump into a few). Koreans really want to include English skills in with their education (enter foreign English teachers). Scented toilet paper is everywhere. Families hang out together (all ages!)! There are motion-sensors everywhere that activate lights in hallways, doorways, and along streets, which turn off as soon as you have moved along. They sort and recycle practically EVERYTHING, and if you don’t do it right, there is somebody keeping an eye on the trash that comes to yell at you. The weather is pretty cold, wet, and beautiful. The trees are yellow, red, orange, and some evergreen, and they delicately lean over streets and sidewalks. There is a forested hill just behind my apartment complex where you can go on walking trails through the trees; I can see it from my back patio. No animals, though. Laurie said, “This is Seoul; they’ve all been killed and put in soup!” Bummer.
The food is amazing, and restaurant portions are surprisingly large (American-sized, even) and incredibly cheap. Everything is stacked several floors high, and stores, restaurants, drycleaners, bakeries, PC bangs, everything, attempts to be efficient and also somehow grab the attention of the swarms of consumers. Oh, and shopping is a major pastime, and though the cheaper department stores I went to are set up like a Ross/Wal-Mart hybrid, people are very neat with the merchandise and there are employees standing around waiting to sweep up the smallest mess, so the floors are spotless. The floors in apartments (and everybody lives in one) are heated, called ondol, and it’s so much more comfortable than using a heater blowing in your face. If I were sleeping on a traditional mattress on the floor, I would certainly be very cozy. As it were, I am sleeping in a Western-style bed. I guess Korean women are crazy about Western men, be they geeky or GQ, but Korean men are not attracted to Western women’s perceived unfeminine, non-submissive natures. I guess that’s me in a nutshell.
I met with my new coworker, Laurie, who has been here since late September, and showed me how to get groceries and clothing, how to use the bus, and where I was on a map (most important!). First we got lunch and I practiced reading the menu items written in Hangul. I can actually do it! It’s a much simpler system than I anticipated, and if I may say, much easier than Kanji! Then she took me to a subway entrance to buy a transit card, and then we went to a bus stop to catch a ride to the grocery store. We first went to some bargain department stores next door to each other, to look at their excellent variety of winter coats (since my Phoenix-idea of warm clothing will soon be inappropriately lightweight). Then we went to a house ware section and I bought a trashcan, then downstairs several floors to the grocery store, which was absolutely teaming with shoppers and employees. First I bought a plant (I need something to be alive in my house with me besides the occasional wayward beetle), then meandered around the vegetables, where I was boggled by the variety of unrecognizable items! There are people all over the grocery yelling over each other to get your attention to buy their products/meats/fish/breads, or offering free samples, or both. Sometimes it seems like employees just pick something up and start talking about it to everyone walking by. I picked up a lovely assortment of mushrooms, soups, snacks, some sort of greens I don’t recognize, some seasonings and condiments, red bean bread (YUM!!!), all kinds of juice, coffee, and eggs.
Ultimately, my major impression of Koreans is that they are incredibly nice people. There is a sense of community here I had always hoped for but could never find with the sprawling nature of the U.S. It clearly has something to do with the amount of people efficiently compartmentalized into small space. Everywhere are apartment buildings ten storeys high or more. People look out for each other, but lack the sense of paranoia and entitlement I saw everywhere in the States. The crime rate is significantly lower, even in a city with 19 million people. I really love it here, but I say that from a perspective of someone three days in, feeling significant pressure to learn to speak and read Korean, do well at my new job, find some form of communication with my peeps back home, and remember everything I ever learned about French and Japanese!
First day in Seoul
I am completely, thoroughly exhausted. Last night, when I arrived in Seoul, it was 7:40pm on Thursday evening….after traveling for 20+ hours by car and plane, and having nearly three whole hours of sleep before my flight, and having only a two-hour nap on the flight (surprising! My nerves wouldn’t let me sleep…), the cab ride to the school from Incheon was very soporific. I really tried to look around to get a sense of where I was and where we were going, but I couldn’t even keep my eyes open, and I was too embarrassed by my limited Korean to ask the driver anything.
Arriving here has left me with a dazed feeling of bewilderment and disbelief. Did I actually travel 6,000 miles yesterday? I flew along the southern coast of Alaska and across a desolate, permafrost stretch of eastern Russia (that looked like soft white peaks of meringue). Flying over the ocean at 39,000 feet is very bizarre because the texture of the waves does not appear to be in constant motion, and believe me, I watched for any signs. All I could see was the skin-like quality of the blue and golden sea surface. Not to mention, it was sunset for at least five hours; the sun even set a few times! The horizon was pink and lovely, with the sun just below, and then it would pop up and gleam brightly, only to sink back down again with a hinting rosy glow. I considered the metaphoric significance of this strange event, but have so far come up with nothing.
Then, when I got out of the taxi, there were two extremely happy Korean women waiting to hug me! These are my bosses, but not the only ones. They brought me up to my new apartment, which was shockingly larger than I anticipated. They told me I had to go to work the next morning, since I came a few days later than planned (not my fault).
And then I was unconscious, finally, in a real, warm bed. I did not have the mental capacity to unpack anything, I simply moved around my new space a few times before going to bed. This morning, I woke up without the aid of an alarm clock (partly because I did not have one I could plug in…long story…and partly because my cell phone decided to die before the prescribed alarm time), but it was no big deal because I woke up on time and relatively rested.
I found some appliances left behind by the former English teacher (for whom I am the replacement), including an iron and a blow dryer. There are a lot of strongly perfumed things all over the place in cabinets and shelves, covered in Hangul, that I think will probably give me a headache if I use them. So, that aside, it’s a nice little space, but actually the biggest place I’ve ever lived in alone.
Then, I decided I ought to look outside during the daytime! (You see, the windows have translucent screens on a second track that can be moved away to see outside)
Turns out it’s yellow and orange and cement and cars out there. There are Korean kids walking all over in coats and scarves, because we live in a suburb clustered around a school area. There are a surprising number of trees, but not the leaf litter that must be expected in a few weeks.
I went to the school and had an orientation with my coordinator, who is such a lovely woman, Jane Park. She walked me through my first day with classes, just four until I’m acclimated, and gave me a thorough schedule for the next week. I met the some other employees in the school (which is called YumKwang CEC, part of APIS, or Asia Pacific International School, all stacked on top of each other), and then the elder who founded YumKwang 45 years ago, Dr. Kim. I’m glad I practiced three Korean phrases, “Good Morning (annyong aseyo),” “Pleased to meet you (mannaso pangapsumnida),” and “Thank you (gamsa hamnida),” because I was able to be more respectful. My being a Christian was an important topic, as well, since this is a Christian school, although I believe he is probably Confucian. He was a very nice man, and our meeting was brief.
Then I had classes. My first class, with 6 kindergarteners, was okay, but half the time a few of them draped themselves across their desks and looked very tired and bored. I found out later they had been on a field trip already that day. We did our lesson, and then I taught them the Hokey-Pokey. I had an hour break, where I met the other teachers in the lounge. They were so nice to me! Everyone introduced themselves and laughed at every single thing I said and gave me 100% of their attention until they had to run off to class. Then I prepared for my next three classes, the first two classes being probably 7-9 year olds, the third being junior high. My younger students wouldn’t shut up, although they did use English pretty well, and the older kids sat there and didn’t say a word even when I asked them! Thank God for the one boy who actually answered all the questions. Getting the hang of the material is probably going to be my biggest challenge, but that won’t even be terribly difficult. I feel pretty confident.
Then I was invited to hang out with some of the other teachers after work ended at 7pm, since it was my coworker Jin’s birthday and she invited several people to her place for dinner. It was very nice and they were really lovely. The other English teachers, Laurie and Alex, who are married, were with us, but Alex was the only man there. The other husbands were all still working for at least the next two hours. The food was amazing, and the children who joined the dinner were so shockingly well-behaved (and adorable)!
Laurie and I walked home from the dinner party, and she explained that we live in a suburb of Seoul, called Wolgye, in a district called Nowon-gu. I’ll have to find that on a map. Our area is very nice, and as teachers we have a pretty sweet deal. The school treats us like gold and our accommodations are pretty snazzy. In other areas, it would be possible for English teachers to be exploited by the school or at the mercy of fate if the school were to close mid-school year. I didn’t need to know that to be grateful for my situation. But it helps. I feel pretty fortunate and blessed to be here, surrounded by these people, with this opportunity not many others get to appreciate.
In San Francisco
11/12/08 11:18am PST
Here I am in the international terminal in SFO. It’s still too early to find out which gate I need to go to for
Unfortunately, I don’t have an Internet connection right now, unless I want to purchase connectivity from T-mobile…and I’m tired of giving them my money. So this is a Word document. It’s the best thing I have to a journal right now. They made me throw away my toothpaste at the security checkpoint in
11.10.2008
deep breathing
Overall, I feel very at peace. It's sad to leave behind people and creatures I love so much, but saying goodbye isn't unfamiliar in most people's lives, certainly not in mine. I'm satisfied that I'll appreciate the appropriate things about my life back home, but I've needed to move on for a long time, to not feel as though I'm resting on my laurels, to keep the spark of excitement and adventure in my life.
And here it is. And I feel calm, content. I let myself freak out early enough that I got the majority of responsibilities taken care of. Now, I can take that deep breath and relax. Actually, first I need to pack a bit more, but it's okay. :)
Thank you to everybody who has been so supportive of me. I think of you all very often, and despite our perpetual geographic limitations, I consider you very dear friends and I am eternally grateful to have you in my life, at least for this part of my journey and yours.
(Anticipate photos of Seoul very soon indeed!)
11.02.2008
getting abroad
I finally received my work visa number, and that means I'll be hurriedly getting my information to the Korean consulate in LA on Monday in order to get the soonest available telephone interview possible in order to obtain my work visa asap. I'm packing all week and wrapping up loose ends here and there. I doubt I'll be working; it has been advised that I give myself time to finish my business up in the States. I tend to overwork myself, but now is not the time to procrastinate with other things.
I really enjoy spending time with people lately who have more to talk about than just my impending geographical alteration. Those who have interesting things going on in their lives are so peaceful to be around because they aren't pestering me for details that I'd just as soon not think about. The ones who are interested are nice to be around, but I always get that tightness in my chest when I take the macroscope view of what I'm facing...I'd really rather listen to other people.
Besides that, I'm meeting someone for lunch and should absolutely get out of here right now.
10.21.2008
still don't know what love means
I will be teaching in Seoul, at a school called YumKwang Christian School (which is lucky, because they have services in English and I won't spend ages hunting down a church). It's very exciting, but I'm also incredibly tense, having gone through all my clothes while trying to mentally inventory everything I might need for a year that I can get away with packing. I think I will really need my Sharper Image clothes steamer....it's rather small and not very heavy. How will I bring my bulky old laptop?? My stomach is in knots, unfortunately. I suppose it's not too early to sit down and do a mock-packing to get a real sense of weight, dimension, and what all I should bring.
Knowing this is the last couple of weeks I'll have to spend with Yoshi is heartbreaking. I am more in love with him than ever, and his sweet spirit has obviously charmed everyone else around him (except for maybe the larger dogs at the dog park; his attitude there is disappointing). I knitted him a sweater, and although it is pretty baggy, he looks so handsome in it and it clearly keeps him warmer. He doesn't tremble nearly as often in the fleeting cool hours of the evening and early morning. I'll bring him down to Tucson to spend the next year with Toby and Tyler. If I could bring him to Korea, he would already have been packed! I hope these few months in Phoenix have been good for him; he's gotten loads of quality attention from our family, and my complete lack of social life has left me a great deal of time to spend with him and take him places with me. I've spent a month away, I've spent four and a half months away with sporadic visits, but I've never spent a year away from this little dog. He is my ray of sunshine! I hope it doesn't get too dark in Seoul.
Well, in the hopes of pursuing graduate schools, I mentioned to the school manager (who interviewed me) that my Five Year Plan included me in grad school, and she seemed amicable to that idea. It really was a great interview (did I mention she sent my recruiter a job offer immediately after speaking with me for 40 minutes?) so I'm satisfied this is a good fit. I'm fully intending to complete my general GRE and build rapport with potential advisers for conservation biology. I'm simply gridlocked with things at the top of my To Do list, however. It's stressful.
On the bright side, I'm getting things done, bit by bit, and if I want to keep that up, I'd better stop doing this.
10.12.2008
a large world after all
So, I wouldn't say life has been terribly bumpy as of late, just busy. It seems like my entire day is eaten up with things to do or time spent recuperating, and when the weekends finally roll around, I just eat it up and then in what feels like a moment it has passed and suddenly I'm waking up early Monday morning, yet again.
It's all just very whoosh! and that's not always bad but it certainly wipes you out.
Toby came up this weekend, and that was wonderful. It wasn't just for me, which was actually pretty nice, that way we had very special time together when we could get it.
Yoshi wants Toby back, though. Ever since the he and his brother came by today to say goodbye before departing back to Tucson, Yoshi has been watching out the window and frequently asking me to go outside so he can check for their car. I think it just reminded him that Toby and Tyler are somewhere other than where he is, and he hasn't seen them in over a month besides. Plus, it got very cold very suddenly and he is trembling like a leaf, while I can't locate any of his sweaters (which look so cute on him!). So he sits in the window, watching and shaking. It truly is heartbreaking.
On the topic of the weather, however, it's finally sweater-wearing time! My cooler-weather wardrobe was just dying to come out of hiding, and the idea of wearing scarves again tickles me greatly!
On Korea, I am still in the stages of very little momentum. Working this much has made my estimated departure date creep up stealthily, while I have gotten nearly nothing done in the way of preparation. I've sent off my documents, am waiting for an interview or two with some schools out there that would suit my start date, and then the work Visa is next. Then I pack everything I can think of in two 50-lb. checked bags and one carry-on, and make my merry way to the other side of the planet, knowing next to nothing about what my life will have in store next.
Hrm. This is the only sentiment I seem able to muster about the state of events to follow.
But at present, I feel anxious and I'm sure there are several things I ought to do, if I could just bend my attention their way. So that's what I'll do.